How Burning Firewood Can Save You Money & Reduce Your Carbon Footprint

How Burning Firewood Can Save You Money!

With the colder weather fast approaching many of us will be concerned with how much it is going to cost to heat our homes this winter and indeed, in many cases, if we will be able to afford to heat them at all but using firewood to heat your home or to supplement central heating can save you a substantial amount of money.

Using firewood will also help reduce the amount of fossil fuels you use and thus reduces your carbon footprint which will, in turn help save our precious planet for future generations and with these thoughts in mind many people have already turned to using firewood in recent years.

In fact it is only in about the last two hundred or so years when the industrial revolution began that we started using fossil fuels such as gas, coal and oil, before that our traditional fuel was wood.

Most of us are now well aware just how damaging fossil fuels are to our environment whereas wood makes for a far better, low carbon, sustainable and renewable alternative producing hardly any smoke provided the wood is burned efficiently.

Although Great Britain now has very limited woodland areas skilful management is ensuring that substantial quantities of wood from forestry which is not suitable for use in the construction industry or for other purposes, is available for use as burning firewood.

Along with this many good tree surgeons are also trying to reduce the impact their work can have on the environment and just one example is reusing, often up to one hundred percent of the wood they remove from sites, for example chopping up branches into firewood which is then available for purchase by the general public.  Most of us will have a local tree surgeon or two close by, thus reducing everyone’s carbon footprint still further as well as using renewable fuel instead of fossil fuel.

Some people who have enough space in their garden are even growing their own, suitable, quick growing trees to produce their own logs whilst others are turning to growing their own woodlands and I expect there are plenty of enterprising people who are getting together to purchase land in order to grow their own woodland as a group project but for those of us who live busy lives in towns and cities, then the best source of firewood is going to be a good, reliable, local tree surgeon, after all most have worked very hard to earn themselves a good reputation so they are not going to risk that by selling you a load of rubbish!

Choosing the Right Logs to Burn

When selecting wood for burning there are two important factors to be taken into consideration and these are, moisture content and wood density as both these factors have an effect on the calorific value (amount of available heat per unit/volume) of fuel.

Moisture Content

Moisture content of wood should be given your greatest attention as this has the biggest effect on calorific value by far as any water that remains in the timber has to boil away (the fresher the logs the higher the moisture content) thus reducing heat output as more energy is used burning off the water, resulting in the need to use more logs to get the room warmed up.

Firewood that is not dry and provided you can get it to light in the first place, just produces a fire that smoulder’s as well as making lots of smoke and tars.  Tars are very unpleasant, may be corrosive resulting in possible damage to the lining of the flue whilst also increasing the risk of a chimney fire and although many stoves have been specifically designed to keep the glass clean, burning wet logs still tends to blacken the glass.

Therefore you should ensure that you only burn seasoned (dry) wood, look out for logs that have radial cracks and bark that flakes off easily as both these point to wood that has been well seasoned.

Obviously seasoned wood will cost a bit more than green wood but if you have the space and somewhere dry to store them you may wish to do this yourself although they will need to be left to dry out for at least a year and preferably two and do bear in mind that green logs are heavier and also require more space to stack them than seasoned wood.  To ensure your stored wood is suitably dry it may be worth investing in a moisture meter for a nominal cost of about twenty or so pounds.

Wood Density

There are two types of wood density consisting of hardwood and softwood.  Hardwood, which consists of broadleaved and deciduous tree species, for example ash, oak and cherry is denser than the softwood tree species of conifers and evergreens, for instance cedar and fir.

What all this means to you and me is that a tonne of hardwood logs will require a smaller storage space than a tonne of softwood logs and more importantly, the denser the wood the longer the burning time with less topping up to keep the stove burning.  Therefore when buying wood by volume, a cubic metre of hardwood will give you more kilowatt hours of heat than softwood, provided of course they both have the same moisture content.

Most suppliers of firewood will tell you if their bundles are made up of hard or softwood or a mixture of both and for general household consumption will come ready split to fit most United Kingdom wood burners and are normally supplied in netted bags.  As a guideline choose those who supply a mix of no less than eighty five percent hardwood and fifteen percent softwood, a bit of softwood mixed in with hardwood helps to get a slow burning fire going again and because softwood is much easier to light it also makes for excellent kindling, cedar wood being one of the best for this.   Two of the very best hardwood logs to try and have in your bundle are ash and oak with cherry also being a good choice as it does not spit and gives off a nice aroma too.

For those who have plenty of storage space or have more than one log burner or stove then bulk buying by tonne bags will be more economical.

When making your purchase don’t forget to check if the wood has been seasoned or is green, depending on your requirements and if the log sizes will fit your stove.   Also consider how the logs will be delivered, for instance will they be dumped on your drive in a sack (you will then have to stack them yourself) or can they be tipped directly into your shed or bunker, also is delivery included in the price or is that extra on top.  Alternatively, you may find that you are able to collect the firewood yourself from the companies works yard.  To help keep down your carbon footprint do try to ensure that the supplier as well as the wood is local.

Contaminated Wood

Just a word of warning to those who may be considering using old sticks of furniture etc, anything that has either been contaminated or treated with varnish, paint or any other preservatives or coatings should never be used as firewood indoors or outdoors under any circumstances.

Indoors, contaminated wood may affect how much tar and other deposits  build up in your chimney releasing noxious chemicals into the smoke and contaminated wood will often leave melted debris in the ash which may lead to serious health problems when burnt, for example old, tanalised wood contains arsenic (wood that has been CCA treated) which I think speaks for itself.

Burning Wood in Smoke Control Areas

Burning wood on open fires in smoke control areas is not permitted and logs, along with most wood briquettes are also not approved in these areas unless they are used in officially approved exempt appliances.

A list of smoke control areas along with the appliances approved for use in those areas can be found here:  www.uksmokecontrolareas.co.uk

Can I Collect & Remove Firewood When Out Walking?

With wood burners becoming ever more popular and most of us looking at ways we can save a few pennies here and there this is becoming an ever increasing question but in general the answer is no and to do so would be considered as theft as all land belongs to someone including the wood found on it.

Before 2008 an eight hundred year old tradition dating back to the Magna Carta stated that every common man was permitted to take deadwood from common land for their own personal use, for example as fuel, to make charcoal or to make repairs to their home but health and safety regulations have now taken an axe to that!

Although man has been collecting firewood for thousands of years apparently it has now become far too dangerous for that to continue and we now have a new set of rules to follow, so no more collecting firewood from your local common.

Taking firewood from privately owned woodlands is of course not permitted unless you have the owners permission so take a chance and ask, they can only say no but you may get lucky.

The Forestry Commission which owns most of the woodlands in Britain does not allow the taking of leaf, seeds or fallen wood from its land and likewise the Woodland Trust does not permit the taking of fallen wood either.  Added to that are council owned parks, the Royal Parks, ie Richmond Park and nature conservation areas where you would not be permitted to take any fallen wood either.

Basically there isn’t anywhere you can legally take fallen wood without the owners prior permission but as with everything there can be exceptions to these rules and in some parts of the country you can purchase a licence to collect firewood but restrictions apply for instance you can only use hand tools and not power tools and you may be restricted to the areas in which you can collect firewood as just a couple of examples and of course having paid for a licence means the firewood is not exactly free.

The best advice is to ask the owner of the land first and if the answer is no then you will unfortunately have to accept that but there are also very good reasons why fallen wood should just be left where it is and in recent years it has become clear that pristine parks, gardens and woodlands are not good for a healthy ecology as nature reuses everything.   It is only man who is wasteful, who makes non-biodegradable products or products that are full of toxins and poisons that damage the environment.

Decaying deadwood provides a home for many species that cannot survive without it, for example insects, lichens and fungi as well as recycling nutrients so if you see fallen wood you can be assured that it has not been abandoned but left in order to perform a vital service to the ecosystem.  The same applies to any wood piles you may see – they have not been placed there for us to help ourselves, sorry about that.

A GUIDE TO THE VARIOUS TYPES OF WOOD AND HOW THEY BURN

Alder  (Alnus)– Poor Quality Firewood

Alder wood produces a low quality firewood with a poor heat output that does not last for long.

Apple (Malus domestica) – Good Quality Firewood

Apple wood needs to be seasoned well after which is makes a good firewood that burns steady and slow with a small flame size.  Apple firewood also has a pleasant scent and does not spark or split.

Ash (Fraxinus) – Very Good Quality Firewood

With a low water content and easily split with an axe, ash makes one of the best firewoods giving off a good heat output with a steady flame.  Due to its low water content it is possible to burn ash firewood when green but as with any wood it burns at its best when dry (seasoned).

Beech (Fagus) – Very Good Quality Firewood

Beech firewood burns much the same as ash firewood although it has a high water content and therefore it needs to be well seasoned first.

Birch (Betula) – Good to Very Good Quality Firewood

Although birch wood makes an excellent firewood giving a good heat output, it is very quick to burn and it is therefore recommended that it is mixed with a slower burning wood, for instance oak.  Birch wood can be burnt whilst still green although prolonged use may cause the sap to produce deposits to form in the flue.

Cedar (Cedrus) – Good Quality Firewood

Cedar firewood burns with a small flame and produces a long, good and consistent heat output with a pleasant smell although it can crackle and spit somewhat.  As with birch firewood prolonged use may cause sap deposits to form in the flue.  Cedar wood also makes for very good kindling.

Cherry (Prunus avium) – Good Quality Firewood

Cherry firewood produces a good heat output without spitting, is slow to burn and has a pleasant smell but it does need to be well seasoned.

Elm (Ulmus) – Medium to Good Quality Firewood

Although large pieces of elm wood can be difficult to split, due to Dutch Elm Disease there is a plentiful supply of small diameter wood available.   As a firewood elm burns very slowly whilst giving off a good and lasting heat but due to its very high water content (one hundred and forty percent more water than wood) it needs to be very well seasoned indeed (at least two years) and may also need help from another, faster burning wood, for example birch, in order for it to keep burning well.

Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus) – Poor Quality Firewood

A fast burning firewood that doesn’t spit and has a pleasant smell, eucalyptus wood needs to be well seasoned as it is very wet when fresh.    Another firewood where the sap can cause deposits in the flue as well as increasing the risk of a chimney fire should the wood be burned unseasoned, all in all a poor quality firewood.

Hawthorn (Crataegus) – Very Good Quality Firewood

A traditional firewood, hawthorn is slow burning whilst producing a good heat output making it a very good choice of wood.

Hazel (Corylus) – Very Good Quality Firewood

A very good firewood when seasoned as this is when the wood performs at its best and although fast burning it does so without spitting.

Holly (Ilex) – Poor to Medium Quality Firewood

Although holly can be burned when green it is best when allowed to season for at least a year.  Despite producing a good flame, holly firewood burns fast and produces a poor heat output.

Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) – Good Quality Firewood

Slow burning and with a good heat output, hornbeam burns similar to beech and makes a good quality firewood.

Horse Chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) – Good Quality Firewood

Despite being a poor firewood for open fires as it tends to spit rather a lot, nevertheless horse chestnut wood produces a good heat output and flame making it a good quality firewood for wood burning stoves.

Laburnum – Poor Quality Firewood

A poor burning and very smoky wood – not recommended.

Larch (Larix) – Poor to Medium Quality Firewood

Larch needs to be well seasoned and although the firewood gives off a fairly good amount of heat it does spit excessively as well as leaving a rather oily soot in the flue.

Laurel (Laurus bobilis) – Medium Quality Firewood

Despite having a good flame laurel firewood only produces a reasonable amount of heat and needs to be well seasoned before using.

Lilac (Syringa) – Good Quality Firewood

Lilac firewood burns well and produces a good flame as well as having a pleasant smell, whilst its smaller branches make good kindling wood.

Lime (Tilia) – Poor Quality Firewood

Producing very little in the way of flame or heat output makes lime firewood of poor quality.

Maple (Acer) – Good Quality Firewood

Producing a good flame and heat output, maple makes a good burning firewood.

Oak (Quercus) – Good Quality Firewood

To be at its best oak wood needs to be seasoned well (minimum of two years).  A dense wood which is very slow to burn with a small flame, oak firewood is one of the best there is.

Pear (Pyrus) – Good Quality Firewood

Provided the wood has been well seasoned, pear firewood burns well, produces a good heat output without spitting and has a pleasing smell.

Pine (Pinus) – Poor to Medium Quality Firewood

Pine firewood needs to be well seasoned, burns hot with a good flame but spits excessively and can leave an oily soot in the flue.  It may also increase the risk of a chimney fire, therefore caution is recommended when using this firewood.

Plane (Platanus) – Medium to Good Quality Firewood

A serviceable medium to good quality firewood.

Plum (Prunus) – Good Quality Firewood

Giving a good heat output, plum makes a good burning firewood.

Poplar (Populus) – Poor Quality Firewood

Only usable provided it has been well seasoned and even then this poor burning, smoky wood gives off very little heat.

Robinia (Robinia pseudoacacia) – Good Quality Firewood

A good firewood that is slow to burn whilst producing a good heat output, unfortunately robinia does produce a dense and acrid black smoke making it unsuitable for open fires although this should not cause a problem for those using wood burning stoves.

Rowan (Sorbus) – Very Good Quality Firewood

Slow burning with a very good heat output similar to that of hawthorn, rowan, sometimes referred to as the mountain ash, makes for a very good firewood.

Spruce (Picea) – Poor Quality Firewood

Spruce firewood does not last well and only produces a poor heat output making it a poor quality firewood.

Sweet Chestnut (Castanea sativa) – Poor Quality Firewood

Burns when seasoned but with a small flame and poor heat output, sweet chestnut is not suitable for open fires as it continuously spits to excess and all in all is considered to be of poor quality as a firewood.

Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis) – Medium Quality Firewood

Sycamore firewood produces a good flame but only provides a moderate heat output and should only be used when it has been well seasoned.

Thorn (Acacia nilotica) – Very Good Quality Firewood

Producing very little in the way of smoke and with a steady flame along with a very good heat output makes thorn one of the best woods for burning.

Walnut (Juglans) –  Medium Quality Firewood

Walnut makes for a moderate to good burning firewood.

Willow (Salix) –  Poor Quality Firewood

A high water content means that willow firewood needs to be well seasoned and even then it does not burn well.

Yew (Taxus baccata) – Very Good Quality Firewood

Slow burning and producing a very good heat output along with a pleasant scent makes yew one of the best firewoods there is.

For further related articles please see:

Logs Burners – all you need to know about Log Storage & Burners.

Article was written by Karen Arnold.

Article Source: https://www.graftingardeners.co.uk/how-burning-firewood-can-save-you-money/